A St. Jean, Manitoba hotel keeper once refused to let his son have a dog. Like most boys, he found a way around the problem by keeping a small puppy hidden away in a grain shed. One morning when he went out for his usual visit, he found his tiny pet had been killed by rats. Unfortunately for the rats, they had outraged a boy named Napoleon Louis Poulin who would later found Poulin’s Pest Control.

Poulin’s Pest Control has grown considerably since the early 1900′s when Napoleon Louis Poulin had his secret puppy, and has become one of the most well known pest control companies in Western Canada. As a family owned business, we know that relationships are important and we aim to ensure that every customer and client feels like they are a part of our family. That’s why there’s no foolin with Poulin!

Poulins Timeline

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Question: What is Diatomaceous earth 2Earth?

Answer: Diatomaceous Earth is a natural chemical-free powder that can be used to help control crawling insects indoors or outdoors. For those looking for a green product, this may be a good option to look into. Diatomaceous Earth is used for treating slugs, earwigs, sowbugs, cockroaches, ants, fleas, silverfish, bed bugs, spiders, wasps, grain insects, and other crawling insects.

We sell Doktor Doom Go Green Premium Quality Baited Insecticide in each of our stores, this product only has one ingredient: Diatomaceous Earth. This natural insecticide takes advantage of mineral deposits of diatoms which have been found useful in reducing crawling insect pest populations in and around the home. The patented manufacturing process of this product combines two food-grade additives, one of which attracts the insects while the other is a digestive ingredient. This formulation usually kills crawling insects within 48 hours from internal and external abrasive action. This fine powder is odour free, does not discolour and is not harmful to animals, fish, fowl or food, when used as directed. The product is effective as long as it is present and can be used indoors or outdoors.

When using Outdoors: For best results use in areas where dust application cannot be affected by heavy rains or high winds. Effective in controlling Slugs, Earwigs, Sowbugs, Beetles, Wasps, Spiders, Ants, Crickets, Caterpillars, Millipedes, and Centipedes. Lightly coat areas where insects hide, including around building foundations, window and door sills, patios, porches, along ant trails, around gardens, and under hedges, shrubs and trees. Spray application is recommended for Slug control. Do not apply to food crops.

When using Indoors: Cockroaches, Ants, Bed Bugs, Silverfish, Earwigs, Crickets, Millipedes, Centipedes, Spiders and Grain Insects. Lightly coat areas where insects hide, such as cracks, crevices, behind and beneath appliances, cabinets, sinks, garbage cans, pipe and drain openings, attics and basements.

Even though this is a chemical-free product it can be harmful if not used according with the label. When dealing with insecticides the label is the law! Always remember to keep out of reach of children. Avoid breathing the dust. Do not use as space spray. Avoid contact with eyes. And wash your hands after use.

If you wish to self-treat your home, then the professionals at Poulin’s would be available to you for the proper products and guidance, our customers are always treated like an extension of our family and we are here to help in whatever capacity. Visit any one of our eight store locations in Winnipeg, Brandon, Regina, Saskatoon, Calgary, Edmonton, Lethbridge, and Vancouver.

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tales from the techWe had a food processor customer call on a pest control issue.  They were hearing noises outside one of the offices and wanted us to investigate what type of animal they were hearing.

We sent their PMP, Pat, to figure it out. This year that area has had an above normal amount of snow and upon investigation Pat figured out it was a cat trapped in hole in a snow and ice bank against the wall of the office. He was able to dig up the snow and make a trail for the cat to get out of the snow.

The cat was extremely happy to see Pat who fed it and got it warmed up. Initially he took it to the vet who determined it was a female about 3-4 months old and was probably in the hole for several days.

Pat took the cat to a cat rescue agency for adoption but ended up returning the next day to pick her up and bring it home with him.

So now Pat has a new cat named “Patty”.



See the pictures below of where we found Patty the kitten!


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asian ladybird beetle

Photo courtesy of Victoria Rutkowski

QUESTION: I thought that bugs died in cold temperatures, can insects live through the winter season?

ANSWER: Even though here in Canada we can experience some VERY cold temperatures in the winter, we know that bugs don’t all disappear forever—so where do they go?

There are some bugs that overwinter, only to come to life in the spring. Depending on the bug, they will spend the winter as an adult, a larva/nymph, a pupa or as an egg. They could be under ice, under bark, underground, or inside structures. Some – mainly the ones inside of structures – are considered pests by many.

Examples of bugs that survive the winter underwater are dragonfly and damselfly nymphs, and a few other aquatic bugs. As eggs, you can find grasshoppers, crickets (both underground) and tent caterpillars (in egg masses on branches). Fall cankerworms are also found as eggs in the winter, which can be in many different places – even park benches and fences! As pupae, many moths, including the spring cankerworm moth, live out the winter, waiting for the spring to emerge as adults.

The bugs that overwinter in the adult stage are often the ones that are regarded as pests. These are fairly common bugs, and more often than not are inside our homes to stay warm. They are not eating, mating or laying eggs – just staying warm. Examples of these are Asian lady beetles, boxelder bugs, stink bugs, cluster flies, and the queens of wasp colonies. Be on the lookout for these bugs come the spring!

For many of these adult-overwintering bugs, there isn’t too much to do about them right now other than collecting them any way you can. For Asian lady beetles, as an example, using a vacuum or insect light trap works well. Try not to use insecticides at this time, as often this results in many dead bugs in one area. This creates an unpleasant odor and can attract other bugs to your home.

In the summer, do some late summer home inspection. Look for cracks and crevices that an insect could slip through, which does not have to be any wider than the thickness of a credit card. Start with the sides of the house that are the warmest, often the south side, where many insects hang out. Caulk cracks around windows and doors, check around anything that is cut into the exterior of the house like a dryer vent, gas line or light fixtures that do not have a bead of caulk surrounding them. Check or repair door sweeps. Vinyl and aluminum siding also offers many places for insects to slip under.

Come late summer or early fall, you can use a residual insecticide outside the home, around all areas mentioned above. This acts as a barrier and helps keep the bugs out of the home.

Need help battling the bugs? Unsure of what you have? Come down to our retail store or email us to get an ID, then ask our staff for some great tips and product options to deal with your pests. Alternatively, you can give us a call at 1-888-768-5467 and we will be happy to help you out! Remember – there’s no foolin’ with Poulin!

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mice eating corn

1) How do rodenticides work?
Most domestic rat and mouse poisons are anticoagulants; they affect the rodent’s blood, reducing the ability of blood to clot so that exposed rodents bleed internally and die.

2) How long does it take before they die?
Rodents that have ingested a lethal dose of single feed anticoagulant bait will die in 4-6 days.

3) What happens after they die?
A dead rodent in a warm environment is going to decay and as a result, and may leave an odour. In some cases, you may find the carcasses in the vicinity of their nest. However, nobody can guarantee that dead rodents will die in an accessible location. The use of anticoagulant baits accelerates their decomposition and consequently produces less odour.

4) Do place packs have to be opened?
No, because rats and mice can smell the bait through the bag and will have no problem eating through the pouches.

5) Can I touch the bait?
All rodent baits can be safely handled but always wash your hands with soap and water after handling rodent baits.

6) Are other animals or birds at risk from eating dead carcasses?
The amount of rodenticide that is required to kill a rat or mouse is quite minimal and rodenticides are not very toxic to larger animals. An animal would likely have to eat dozens of mice or rats in a short period of time to ingest enough active ingredient to make them sick. The carcasses dry up quickly becoming very unappealing but it is important to pick up dead carcasses immediately to avoid any possibility of secondary poisoning.

7) Is one feeding enough?

  • Diphacinone (Ditrac, Tomcat) requires multiple feedings over several days before a lethal dose is consumed. It is important to provide a continuous supply of bait if you are using this type of rodenticide.
  • Bromodialone (Contrac, Hawk) and Brodificoum (Final, Jaguar) are single feed rodenticides that will kill warfarin resistant rats and mice in one feeding. However, they may continue to consume bait for several days afterwards and bait supply should be continuous to ensure all rodents have an opportunity to feed.

8) How do I keep rodent baits away from children & pets?
Bait stations are the ideal device to add safety to rodent control. They are extremely durable, tamper resistant and can even be anchored to ensure they will not be picked up or moved. There are also many types of effective traps to consider instead of baits. Place the bait stations under stoves, dishwasher and behind fridges.

9) What is the best way to bait?
Begin baiting as soon as you detect a problem. Place bait in areas where you notice or suspect rodent activity, that is, where rodents will find it. Mice tend to travel only 10-30 feet from their nest, while a rat’s home range is 100-150 feet from the nest. Be sure to keep bait fresh and dry, and dispose of any old or contaminated bait. Check the bait station at least once a week and replenish bait as required.

10) Where should I place baits, bait stations, or traps?
Place bait stations and traps where there are signs of heavy rodent activity. (feces, chew marks, urine stains, hair, scratching and/or squeaking sounds at night). Placement will usually be against a wall and out of reach of children, pets, and non-target animals. Rats and mice have limited vision so they always follow lines such as walls.

11) Why use glueboards?
Glueboard traps are non-toxic. Capture results are clearly visible and disposal is quick and easy.

12) I used the bait: Why do I still have rodents?

  • It can take up to 10 days to kill rats or mice.
  • Many rats and mice have developed a resistance to warfarin. Switch to a single feed anticoagulant rodenticide.
  • Not enough bait was used. Rat and mice infestations can be very large (almost always larger then you would expect – rarely just one). Continue to refill the bait station as long as they are eating the bait as it may take time to reduce the population.
  • Rodents can and will move pellets to another location and cache the bait. Switch to a single feed anticoagulant block bait that will be ingested right inside the bait station.
  • Clean up areas where rats and mice live and breed and remove other all other food sources.
  • To ensure that new rodents are not gaining access make sure all small openings around your house and foundation are sealed especially around pipes, wires, windows, and doors.
  • Rats and mice love clutter and hate open spaces. Basements, storage areas, and garages often become rodent havens due to accumulated boxes, furniture, and collectables. Clean and organize these areas as soon as possible if you see signs of rodent activity.
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